Wednesday, 28 November 2012

White Khichda for Dark Souls




It always reminds me of Moharrum. Khichda is an awesome one-dish meal that is usually prepared during Moharrum, but in some homes, all round the year.  It is yummy, healthy and simple. It is also the elder brother of of Khichdi  (dal and rice), but that is another story.

My version of  ‘White Khichda’ is inspired by Bohra cuisine again and I have just relied on my taste buds to decide what must go into it, to taste like it should. I have substituted the normally used whole beaten wheat with pearly white barley jau, which is good for cholesterol too.


Soak 350 grams of barley jau in water overnight and rinse in clean water once next morning. Also soak 2 tablespoons of red masoor dal and one tablespoon each of yellow moong dal and tur dal. With all this soaking going around, you should now have time to prepare two accompaniments for the Khichda. To save time, slice four large onions and keep aside.  You will need onions at three different  stages.  First accompaniment is a ‘Kachumer’ which is a cucumber & tomato salad. Grate cucumbers and squeeze out the water. Chop two tomatoes into tiny pieces and avoid using pulp (it will make the kachumer’ watery). Mix  cucumber, tomatoes, one sliced onion, few chopped green chillies, a little chopped coriander ,some salt and a little lemon juice. Refrigerate. Meanwhile, also fry two sliced onions in oil till brown, cool and crush. By virtue, this is called ‘Barista’. No one knows, whose bright idea it was, to name coffee shops after fried onions!


The second accompaniment is a Date & Onion Chutney.  Deseed 10 to 12 dates and put in a blender with some water for a few minutes. Pour this sauce into a pan. Add a teaspoon of cooking oil, a teaspoon of black pepper powder, some salt, half a teaspoon of roasted cumin powder  and lots of red chilly powder (you will not be putting much in the khichda, so its okay to make this chutney a little fiery!). Cook on  a low flame for about five minutes till you get a dark brown sauce. When cool mix  one chopped onion into the chutney.

Get the mutton ready for the khichda. (half a kilogram, but with bones).


Heat a little oil and fry mutton pieces with a little ginger-garlic paste. Add a few cloves, green cardamom and piece each of star anise and cinnamon. Fry for a few more minutes. Add lots of water and salt to taste and cook till tender, for about 35 to 40 minutes (in a pressure cooker).

In a separate open pan cook the soaked barley and dals. Add some more whole garam masalas and lots of green chillies. The whole masalas will be removed later on, but not the chillies. Boil till the barley and dal are tender enough to be crushed.  Keep stirring occasionally to avoid sticking to the bottom of the pan.


Remove the whole garam masala from both, the barley-dal broth and the mutton. Add only the mutton soup to the mixture.


Traditionally, you can use a wooden pestle to crush the khichda, but that would be time consuming and requires a lot of energy. Try a hand blender.


The consistency should be a little grainy, so avoid overdoing it.  While you are doing this you can check the taste for salt and spiciness. Add a pinch of garam masala powder and little red chilly powder at this stage. It will still not change the colour of the khichda and anyway, the attempt should be to improve the taste and no one is going to receive a trophy for making an‘Albino Khichda’!

Add mutton and reheat for sometime. If you notice, it is the lack of turmeric that will not give your khichda the yellow dal-like colour that we are normally used to.

The best and the ONLY way to serve the White Khichda is with a little ‘Barista’ and some chopped mint leaves, sprinkled with lemon juice.  Drizzle a little melted butter or ghee too.  Serve kachumer & spicy date chutney separately. This will complement the blandness , if any, of the khichda. But trust me.....the White Khichda should melt even the darkest souls!

Thursday, 1 November 2012

Dabba Gosht & The Chamber of Secrets

Like most things, Dabba Gosht, I think is a closely guarded secret of Bohra Cuisine. It has disappeared from Bohra Thaals almost completely. It is very rarely available at restaurants and if it is, then it's not even a long-lost distantly related step-cousin of the original. If you try searching on Google, you will find about 8 to 10 different variations of Dabba Gosht but very few come close. In fact, one of the Dabba Gosht recipe I discovered online had all the possible ingredients available in a kitchen added into this dish:  Cream, curd, cashew paste, bits of noodles, macaroni, tomatoes... the list is endless!

I have attempted to recreate Dabba Gosht with minimal but effective ingredients so that taste-buds are not bombarded with too many unrecognizable flavours. What you get is a basic side-dish (but good enough to be the main course!) that you can probably imagine being enjoyed by a happy Bohri family on a lazy Sunday afternoon.



Take succulent boneless mutton pieces or use beef instead and cut into small bite-sized cubes, which is also known as 'chana boti'. The best meat selection for his would be 'adle ka gosht' or meat from thigh. Boil in a little water with a pinch of turmeric, some salt, a teaspoon of ginger & garlic paste and a pinch of garam masala powder.  Cook till tender. Some people use the same mutton stock for making the sauce: I don't do that for a simple reason that mutton stock has no flavour when made with boneless meat (The juice is in the bones!)  For the sauce, heat a tablespoon of butter and add 2 teaspoon of flour (maida) and fry lightly for a few seconds, add 2 cups of milk and cook on low heat beating continuously till you have a light white sauce. Add a little salt and finely chopped garlic and there... you have a Garlic Bechamel Sauce that will make an excellent base for the Dabba Gosht.
 
You will also need a few eggs, red or green chilly sauce, some cheese and coriander leaves. Okay, agreed that this coriander must have seen better days, but when washed and chopped finely it added a lot of colour and flavor to the food.  To add some body to the dish, I added some corn and a couple of chopped soft-boiled eggs. Now this is just optional and though most people may not mind the egg, the corn added a little sweetness which may not be favoured by all. So next time I might not add it.

In a pan, saute mutton pieces with white sauce, add lots of chilly sauce depending on the spiciness quotient you want, some salt to taste, black pepper powder, corn, chopped eggs & chopped or grated cheese.  Cook for a few minutes only till cheese has melted and mutton has been coated with all the sauce. Transfer in a baking dish and lightly pack it down with a spatula. Beat a couple of eggs with a little salt, pepper powder (red or black) and chopped coriander. Pour evenly over the surface. Now you have two options: Traditionally, you can either heat a lot of ghee or butter and pour it hot over the egg so that the egg gets fried.  In this Big Bad World of Cholesterol, I chose the safer option: I omitted the ghee/butter and just popped it in the oven (my Chamber of Secrets!) and baked it for about 20-25 minutes.

The success of your Dabba Gosht depend on how succulent the meat is: If it does not melt in your mouth, you have failed.

I made this for someone's birthday party and after the cake-cutting, while the birthday cake was lying unnoticed, the Dabba Gosht was wiped out within minutes. This, I think, is the biggest compliment.
 




...and as you can see, Dabba Gosht is still missing from the Bohra Thaal!